/A ‘Beautiful Thing Called Masa’ Stars at a Texas Restaurant

A ‘Beautiful Thing Called Masa’ Stars at a Texas Restaurant


The very first thing a customer to Suerte would possibly discover after opening the menu is a part cheekily titled “Vitamin T” — a assortment of the restaurant’s takes on a number of regional Mexican classics: tacos, tostadas, tamales, tlacoyos. But these dishes have one thing in widespread that might have resulted in a “Vitamin M” part: masa, the corn-based dough that’s their central focus and, certainly, the restaurant’s.

The mission of Suerte, which opened in March in East Austin, mentioned Fermín Núñez, its 30-year-old government chef, is “creating this beautiful thing called masa, which is the canvas for so much Mexican cooking.” The masa is made in-house, utilizing corn sourced from two native producers: crimson corn from Richardson Farms, and heirloom white and inexperienced from Barton Springs Mill. “Every night and into the next morning,” Mr. Núñez mentioned, “we make masa.”

On a summer season go to to Suerte, the varied iterations of masa had been certainly scrumptious, each earthy and candy. Carnitas tlacoyo, formed like elongated footballs, had been pleasantly gentle and refried beans and salsa verde added additional character. Less profitable was the quesadilla del tule, a taste-muddle of squash, Oaxacan cheese, peppers and a pumpkin seed and pistachio salsa. But the star of the T dishes wbecause the suadero tacos, full of meltingly gentle confit brisket, an avocado salsa cruda and one thing the menu calls “black magic oil” (truly a mixture of morita chile, fermented black beans, black sesame seeds and oil).

It can also be value venturing past the Vitamin T part. From “Frio & Raw,” we tried the brilliant and spicy aguachile, with royal crimson prawns in a cascadel chile broth, topped with a darkish, crunchy cracker (comprised of masa, in fact). Out of “Specialties” we sampled a wildly flavorful barbacoa of goat ribs, served with two varieties of salsa, housemade queso fresco and a basket of tender tortillas. And the “Vegetables” part yielded a good stand-in for dessert: peaches and mangos, which arrived prettily wearing a Latin spin on inexperienced goddess dressing.



Source link Nytimes.com

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